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In the decades since, this part of Alaska has been subjected to abnormal heat waves and wildfires. Soon afterward, though, scientists began to warn that the Arctic was warming at twice the global average. Back then, we dressed for winter in the first week of August.
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Since my first trip down those headwaters in 1982, temperatures in the Arctic have risen several degrees Fahrenheit. But the last six years have seen some of the warmest weather on record in Alaska. But climate change had lengthened the summers and delayed the cold, so we needed head nets and bug dope.Īlistair and I repeatedly cooled off by swimming in the river, an activity I had never considered during dozens of trips to the chilly North. We had come in August hoping the frosts that usually began that month would have killed off the infamous clouds of mosquitoes. To my surprise, the temperatures approached 90 degrees Fahrenheit for three consecutive days. I had also come to escape the record heat and forest fire smoke in Colorado for what I believed would be a cool interlude in the Far North. This year, instead of simply enjoying a float down memory lane in the wildest country imaginable, I was stunned by how climate change had radically altered the place I once knew.ĭrawn to wild places all my life for spiritual renewal, I had chosen the Noatak as the ultimate wilderness trip to share with my 15-year-old son, Alistair, and another family. Thirty-six years had passed since I had last worked as a guide on the Noatak River. Since extreme rainfall had lifted the river out of its banks (and delayed our floatplane flight in from Bettles, Alaska, for three days), every potential campsite had been sluiced over with silt and left soaking wet. To avoid crashing into the banks, I had to keep sharp eyes on the surging river and hands on the oars. Caribou trails spider-webbed the hillsides, while cumulus clouds gathered like ripened fruit above a valley so vast that you could feel lost without binoculars and frequent map consultations. Secluded in the far-flung Gates of the Arctic National Park in northwestern Alaska, the flooded Noatak River pushed our raft downstream into a brisk wind.